The Beginner’s Guide to Collecting Vintage & Antique Jewellery

Between the thrill of the hunt and the delight of owning something unique, buying vintage and antique jewellery is addictive. It requires neither copious space nor funds and – best of all – can be on full display every day. What’s more, buying pre-loved is the ultimate in sustainable jewellery, so you’re supporting the planet while you’re at it.

It’s never to early (or late) to start collecting antique and vintage jewellery, but it pays to be armed with some know-how. Here are some expert tips to get the ball rolling for the prospective collectors out there:

Consider when you’ll wear it

When you’re hunting for the perfect pieces, being clear about what you want them is key. If you’re looking for wearable, day-to-day jewellery then focus on durable materials and secure settings. Avoid sharp corners that might snag, delicate fastenings, vulnerable gemstones (particularly if they protrude) and be wary of pure, soft gold if you’re planning to wear it alongside other jewellery.

If instead you’re looking for a statement cocktail ring or collar necklace to wow at the odd drinks party then you have license to buy pieces that are wildly impractical but utterly stunning.

Don’t assume you can’t afford it

People assume that by dint of being ‘antique’ or ‘vintage’, the price goes up, where in most cases the opposite is in fact true. There are no manufacturing costs or ‘newness’ premiums so antique and vintage jewellery should be valued based mainly on the materials and craftsmanship involved and the condition of the piece. In fact, buying old jewellery is an excellent way to

Understand the context

Whether you are interested in history or not, your experience as a jewellery collector will be far richer if you take the time to explore the context (historic and personal) of the piece. When you consider that your find has twirled around the ballroom in the heyday of a stately Georgian home or been marched through the smog of Victorian London, you really appreciate the beauty of owning something antique.

If you’re particularly drawn to a certain era – Art Deco or Georgian, say – it’s worth really getting under the skin of that period. From listening to Twenties jazz music to getting to know Jane Austen’s famous characters on screen, there’s no need to pack yourself off to the library to learn all about the origins of your collection.

Similarly, if you can’t resist buying vintage earrings from around the world or have a thing for lockets, almost every popular style has a starting point and a story to tell, if you dig around.

Find a trusted dealer

When you’re buying antique and vintage jewellery you will be relying on your dealer for the essential information. Accurate dating and assessing the materials, craftsmanship and condition of the piece are key to its monetary value and discovering its story.

Building a personal relationship with a dealer is a valuable way to have an extra pair of expert eyes in your hunt for certain styles or pieces. Dealers have reliable, expert sources and are often approached by people entrusting their sentimental heirlooms for an onwards sale.

Don’t be afraid to interrogate your dealer

If you are choosing to invest in a piece of jewellery with a past and (often) no certificate or guarantees, it’s important to ask your dealer as many questions as you can about your piece. No dealer expects their clients to be armed with the expertise and a good dealer respects and loves each piece as their own, so will be happy to discuss it in detail.

Read our guide to asking all the right questions, to give you the confidence to go out there and buy.

Hold it before you buy

These days, nobody bats an eyelid before buying online. It allows us to explore far and wide to find the perfect pieces. However, when buying antique and vintage jewellery we would always advise our clients to hold a piece in their hands before they commit.

While good and photography is an excellent guideline, the size, proportions, weight and lustre of jewellery can be quite different in reality than on screen. Whether it’s by visiting a shop or a showroom, or simply making sure you can return a piece by post if it doesn’t feel right, always aim to assess the physical feel of a piece of jewellery first.

Respect the age of the jewellery

While good quality antique and vintage jewellery has real lasting power, it should be treated with the same respect as an old chair or painting. Age can impact strength and jewellery-making techniques have evolved and improved over the years. Look after your jewellery and it will reward you with many more years of twinkling beauty.

Look after your jewellery

Good quality antique and vintage jewellery is built to stand the test of time. However virtually all jewellery needs a certain amount of maintenance to retain its lustre and sparkle and – in some cases – its strength.

Different materials call for different cleaning techniques and some materials – 18 and 24 carat gold and pearls, for example – also need to be stored particularly carefully.

Read our guide to looking after your jewellery, for lots of specific tips and techniques.

Update or resize (with respect)

It can be fun (and may be necessary) to alter a piece of antique jewellery to create the perfect piece for your collection. Before you buy, check whether any piece you plan to alter is strong enough. Discuss your plans with your dealer and seek any advice you need before you begin.

Do bear in mind that there are guidelines – sometimes even laws – around how much altering you can do before the piece loses its status as antique. Important if you are planning to sell it on.

Beware of fakes

While it’s very common to find antique or vintage jewellery which is replicating an even earlier style, do beware of modern jewellery posing as antique or vintage jewellery. Because old jewellery is coveted and unique, sellers often try to pass off modern jewellery as antique or vintage. Look out for phrases such as ‘Art Deco Style Ring’, and always buy from a trusted dealer who will give you an honest, expert assessment of the period in which any one piece was created.

While a modern replica may be beautiful in its own right and use quality materials, its value (both monetary and sentimental) is altered by its story and authenticity.

Insure carefully

Collecting something we love leaves us vulnerable to losing not only the value of the items but also the time and consideration we’ve dedicated to building a collection. Make sure you speak to your insurers about protecting yourself against the theft, loss or damage of your antique and vintage jewellery as the guidelines and policies are not as straightforward as with modern goods. Make sure your insurer will allow you to replace pieces with equivalent items, not just modern replacements.

Buy what you love

Jewellery is extremely personal and there are no rules when it comes to beauty so don’t let anybody sway your instinct. Buy and wear pieces that speak to you, pieces you can see yourself wearing time and time again. Jewellery is there to be worn, to be decorative and to be loved.

Start Your Collection at The Antique Jewellery Company

The Antique Jewellery Company is proud to be one of the world’s leading online destinations for antique and vintage jewellery. Our collection spans from 1714 to pre-loved rings from recent years.

Our founder, Olly Gerrish, has over 40 years of experience with antique and vintage jewellery and is an expert in her field. She puts her respected name behind every piece of jewellery we sell. Olly is based in our showroom (when she’s not out hunting) and always loves to meet clients personally.

We hope you enjoy exploring our ever-changing collection and look forward to meeting you personally at our London showroom, should you wish to come and see our jewellery for yourself. We never rush our clients or pressure them into buying and welcome any questions you have about the condition, size of stones or origin of a piece, or even just finding the right style for you.

We also offer Free Worldwide Returns, so you if you can’t make it to our showroom can order from our website safe in the knowledge that you can return the item if it isn’t perfect.