Gold Chains for Men: An Antique Guide

The gold chain is having a moment, but it is nothing new. Men have worn gold chains for centuries, and in the nineteenth century almost every well-dressed man wore one across his waistcoat. An antique chain has a weight, a colour and a quality of making that modern chains rarely match.

The return of the gold chain

From musicians to footballers, gold chains have been back in fashion for years. Worn simply, over a T-shirt or with an open collar, a good gold chain is one of the most versatile pieces of jewellery a man can own.

A little history

The Victorian gentleman’s watch chain, known as an Albert after Prince Albert, who helped make it fashionable, ran from a waistcoat buttonhole to the pocket watch. Many were heavy, beautifully made links of 9ct, 15ct or 18ct gold, and they are now some of the best gold chains you can buy, often converted to be worn around the neck. Long guard chains, belcher chains and curb chains were all popular too.

Georgian Ornate 9ct Two Colour Gold Chain with Three Leaf Clover Detail

Why a gold chain works

A gold chain is simple, masculine and suits almost any style. It can be worn alone, with a pendant, signet or medal, or layered with other chains.

How to choose a gold chain

Link. Curb links lie flat and are the classic choice; belcher links are round and chunky; fancy Victorian links are more decorative, like this early Victorian 15ct gold chain.

Length. Around 45 to 50cm sits at the collarbone; 55 to 60cm drops to the chest and works well with a pendant.

Weight. A heavier chain is more durable and has more presence. Antique chains are usually solid gold throughout.

Gold. 9ct is hard-wearing with a warm tone; 15ct and 18ct are richer in colour. Our guide to gold carats explains the difference.

A Victorian Albert chain has a weight and a colour you just don’t get from a new chain. Men who try one on rarely go back.
Olly Gerrish, AJC Founder

Styling a gold chain

Keep it simple: one good chain over a plain T-shirt or with an open-necked shirt. For evening, a finer chain under a collar is enough. Layering works best with two chains of different lengths and link styles.

Gold chains and value

Antique gold chains are made of solid gold and are usually priced on their quality and craftsmanship as well as their weight. We would never call jewellery an investment, but a well-made antique chain holds its appeal for a lifetime.

Our view

For a man’s gold chain, we would look for a Victorian Albert or curb chain in 9ct or 15ct gold, worn around the neck: robust, handsome and full of history. See our antique chains and men’s jewellery.