10 Antique Pieces Every Collector Should Own

Every collector’s list is different, and the best collections are built on love rather than rules. But after fifty years of buying and selling, these are the ten antique pieces we think every collection, and every jewellery box, is richer for.

1. A Georgian cluster ring

Foiled stones in a closed-back gold setting, made more than two hundred years ago: the essence of early jewellery. See our Georgian rings.

Georgian 15ct Gold Flower Cluster Ring set with Emeralds, Diamonds & a Ruby

2. A Victorian locket

Personal, practical and full of sentiment, with space for a photograph or a lock of hair. See our antique lockets.

Victorian 18ct Gold Locket with Engraved Fuchsias

3. A mourning ring

A ring made to remember a named person, often with their dates inside. Read our guide to antique mourning rings.

Georgian 18ct Gold & White Enamel Mourning Ring Dated 1775

4. An Edwardian platinum ring

Fine claws, millegrain edges and old-cut diamonds: the high point of the ring-maker’s art. See our Edwardian rings.

Edwardian Platinum Diamond Fancy Cluster Ring

5. An Art Deco piece

A brooch, clip or ring in geometric platinum and diamonds, the most modern-looking jewellery of the past. See our Art Deco jewellery.

Art Deco Platinum & Diamond Circular Brooch

Buy what you love and can’t stop thinking about. A collection is only ever as good as the eye of the person who put it together.
Olly Gerrish, AJC Founder

6. A cameo

Carved shell or hardstone, a direct link to the Grand Tour and the Victorian love of the classical world.

Victorian 15ct Gold Shell Cameo Brooch of Medusa

7. A seal or signet ring

Made to be used, often carved with a crest or initials: jewellery with a job to do. See our antique seals and signet rings.

Victorian 18ct Gold Signet Ring with Lapis Lazuli Intaglio of an Eagle

8. A good gold chain

A Victorian Albert or guard chain in solid gold, worn every day for the rest of your life. Read our guide to belcher chains.

9. A piece with a hidden message

A regard ring, a forget-me-not or a lover’s knot: sentimental jewellery at its most charming.

10. Something by a named maker

A signed piece by a great maker or house, from Theodor Fahrner to Cartier, rewards research and holds its appeal.

Art Deco 18ct Gold & Platinum Small Circle & Star Pendant by Cartier

Our view

Start with the piece that speaks to you, and build from there. Whether you collect one period, one type of jewel or simply what you love, every one of these will give you pleasure for a lifetime. For more, see the beginner’s guide to collecting.