A Short History of Wedding Rings

A plain gold band is one of the simplest objects in jewellery, and one of the oldest. The wedding ring has been exchanged, in one form or another, for thousands of years, and the antique bands we sell today are part of a very long story.

Ancient origins

Rings were given as a sign of commitment in the ancient world, and the circle, with no beginning and no end, has long stood for eternity. The Romans gave rings at betrothal, early ones in iron and later in gold, and it was the Romans who believed the fourth finger of the left hand was linked to the heart. We explain that belief in which finger a wedding ring goes on.

A Roman gold finger ring, 3rd century AD. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Open Access (CC0).

Gold Byzantine marriage ring with clasped hands — A gold marriage ring of the 6th century. Its clasped hands, a symbol of betrothal, go back to Roman times. Walters Art Museum, Baltimore. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

The medieval wedding ring

By the Middle Ages the ring had become part of the Christian marriage service. Rings were often engraved inside with a short verse, the posy ring, and the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries also produced gimmel rings, two or three interlocking hoops that fitted together as one, sometimes divided between the couple during the engagement and reunited at the wedding. Fede rings, with clasped hands, were given as both betrothal and wedding rings.

The Arnolfini Portrait by Jan van Eyck — Jan van Eyck, The Arnolfini Portrait, 1434. National Gallery, London. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Medieval gold posy ring found in England — A medieval gold posy ring, found by a metal detectorist and now in the British Museum. Sonofthesands, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Sixteenth-century gimmel ring opened to show its two inscribed hoops — A gimmel ring of the late 16th century, opened to show its two interlocking hoops. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

The Georgian and Victorian gold band

By the eighteenth century the plain gold band had become the standard British wedding ring. For most of the nineteenth century it was made in 22ct gold, rich yellow and soft enough to wear smooth over a lifetime; slimmer 18ct rings became more common later. Because British wedding rings were hallmarked, most antique bands can be dated to the year they were assayed, like this William IV wedding ring assayed in 1832.

The Marriage of Queen Victoria by Sir George Hayter — Sir George Hayter, The Marriage of Queen Victoria, 10 February 1840. Royal Collection. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Georgian and Victorian gold wedding rings from our collection, one hallmarked in 1832. See more

The Wedding Morning by John Henry Frederick Bacon — John Henry Frederick Bacon, The Wedding Morning, 1892. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

An old wedding ring worn thin and smooth is the most romantic object I know. Somebody wore that every day of their married life.
Olly Gerrish, AJC Founder

The twentieth century

Platinum wedding rings arrived with the Edwardians and became popular in the 1920s and 1930s. Wide 22ct bands remained a British favourite well into the twentieth century. The double-ring ceremony, with the groom also wearing a ring, became widespread only during and after the Second World War, when many servicemen wanted a reminder of home.

Twentieth-century platinum and 22ct gold wedding rings — Platinum and 22ct gold wedding rings of the 1920s and 1930s, including one by Cartier, from our collection. See more

A naval wedding couple in Brisbane, May 1940 — A wartime wedding: Leading Seaman Noel Hawke and Norma Brooke, Brisbane, May 1940. State Library of Queensland. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Wedding portrait of Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip, 1947 — Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip on their wedding day, 20 November 1947. Her ring was Welsh gold. Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

Wedding rings today

Today couples choose everything from plain bands to diamond eternity rings, and many choose an antique ring for its history and character. An old band, dated by its hallmark to a year that means something, is one of the most personal choices there is. Our guide to reading antique hallmarks explains how to date one.

Early 20th Century 22ct Gold Wedding Ring engraved inside Fidelity

Our view

A good antique gold band has already proved it can last a lifetime. We would choose one for its colour, its weight and, if possible, a date that tells a story. For earlier history, see a history of the engagement ring.

An old wedding ring worn thin and smooth is the most romantic object I know. Somebody wore that every day of their married life.
Olly Gerrish, AJC Founder