Antique Amethyst Rings: A Buyer’s Guide

For most of history, amethyst was as precious as ruby or sapphire, worn by royalty and bishops alike. Its rich purple is still one of the most beautiful colours in jewellery, and an antique amethyst ring offers a great deal of colour and history for a modest price.

The pros and cons of amethyst

In its favour: amethyst is a quartz, at 7 on the Mohs scale, hard enough for careful everyday wear. Its colour is regal, it is the birthstone for February, and large stones are very affordable.

To bear in mind: amethyst is softer than sapphire or diamond, so it can show wear on its facets over the years, and prolonged strong sunlight can slowly fade some stones.

A precious stone for centuries

Until the nineteenth century, fine amethyst was rare and very expensive. The discovery of large deposits in Brazil made it far more widely available, and its price fell, which is why Georgian and Regency amethyst jewellery was a luxury while later Victorian and Edwardian pieces reached a much wider public. The deepest purple, with flashes of red, is still the most prized; it is sometimes called Siberian amethyst after the historic Russian mines.

Amethyst in antique jewellery

Georgian jewellers made magnificent amethyst necklaces and parures in gold, and Regency rings set amethysts in rows, like this Regency five-stone amethyst ring. Edwardian jewellers combined amethyst with pearls, diamonds and enamel. Jewellery in green, white and violet is often linked with the suffragettes, although many such pieces simply reflect the fashionable colours of the time.

Choosing an amethyst ring

Colour. Look for a rich, even purple without too much brown or grey. Deeper colours are more valuable.

Clarity. Amethyst is usually quite clean; visible inclusions reduce value.

Setting. Yellow gold warms the purple; white metals make it cooler. A diamond frame, as in this Edwardian amethyst and diamond cluster ring, makes the colour glow.

Caring for an amethyst ring

Clean with warm soapy water, store away from harder stones, and avoid leaving it in strong sunlight for long periods.

Our view

A Georgian or Edwardian amethyst ring, set with diamonds or pearls, gives you a genuinely historic stone of glorious colour at an approachable price. See our antique amethyst rings and amethyst jewellery.

Explore the collection

• Amethyst rings
• Amethyst jewellery
• Georgian jewellery
• Edwardian jewellery

Further reading

• The A-Z of gemstones
• The meaning behind coloured engagement rings
• Suffragette jewellery