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The Antique Jewellery Company

Victorian Fox Head Reverse Intaglio Rock Crystal & Rose Diamond Tie Pin

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An unusual tie pin set with a reverse intaglio carved rock crystal of a fox head. Around it are rose diamonds. A reverse crystal intaglio is a rock crystal cabochon with an intaglio carved into the flat back. The intaglio was also painted realistically with oils so, that when viewed through the top, the image appears three-dimensional. Finally, the back was sealed in order to preserve the painted areas. The technique originated in Belgium c. 1860 and is attributed to an artist named Emile Marius Pradier. This technique was also practiced in England by Thomas Cook and his descendants who made crystals for Lambeth & Co.
Production of a reverse crystal intaglio begins with the mining and cutting of fine rock crystal from Brazil or Madagascar. A well formed cabochon is the key to a beautifully made reverse intaglio and the tedious process of hand polishing it to perfection had to be completed before the design work could begin. A watercolour of the image was painted on the underside of the cabochon and an oil and diamond dust mixture was used along with up to 250 scribing tools to carve the design into the interior of the crystal “…the deeper the carving the more pronounced “trompe l’oeil effect.” Once the carving was established the painting process began with extremely fine brushes and paint working in reverse to create incredibly detailed images.
The motifs most commonly found are sporting themes – horses, dogs, foxes and birds. This relatively secret process passed through family members, so keeping it exclusive and expectations of quality were very high. They remained in fashion until poorly made glass and plastic imitations flooded the market c. 1920s. This tie pin dates from around 1890. All our tie pins come with a stopper at the end of the pin.

Written by Olly Gerrish
Date & OriginVictorian (1839-1901), English
MeasurementsDiameter 1.2 cm
Rose diamonds approx total weight 28 points
Length of pin 6 cm
ConditionVery Good
HallmarksUnmarked, tested to 15ct gold
ProvenanceEnglish