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Art Deco French 18ct White Gold Invisible Set Sapphire & Diamond Ring

537 Admirers
Written by Olly Gerrish

An unusual 18ct white gold ring that was made in the 1930s. One of the most revolutionary developments in jewellery workmanship occurred in the 1930’s, a new type of gemstone setting that only the very best and most highly skilled craftsmen could achieve. It was called “the invisible setting”, a technique where no metal was visible from above, only from the reverse of the piece. The stones were slotted in to channels on the reverse to create a striking result. Similar to calibré cut gemstones, each gemstone would have to be exactly the right shape and size, sometimes tapered and sometimes set on extraordinary curved bezels. This technique could only be successfully achieved by the best workshops such as Van Cleef & Arpels, and were often signed by their master makers. This ring is dome shaped with Royal blue sapphires set in invisible settings that create an area of colour without the interruption of metal. It has a border of graded diamonds on either side. It can only be sized marginally as it would affect the invisible settings. It would make a stunning engagement ring.

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Item Number
Top of ring:
Width at widest point across top 1cm
Width 2cm across band
Diamonds approx total weight 0.22 carats
39 Sapphires measure at largest 2.5 mm by 2mm
Approx total weight 2 carats
Date & Origin

Eagle's head (French mark for 18ct white gold) on outside
Later mark 750 (for 18ct white gold) inside
French Maker's mark hard to read

Very Good
4 years ago

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