French 18ct Gold Art Nouveau Ring set with Diamonds & a Green Garnet

An unusual Art Nouveau ring that was made circa 1900-1910 and is most likely of French origin. There are marks on the outside of the shank which is normal for French pieces but I have not been able to identify them. It is a typical stylised botanical design with sinuous twirls set with graduated diamonds and five small rose diamonds and a green garnet in the centre. Green garnets are very sought after as the supply is finite. The proper name for green garnet is “demantoid” garnet. Although garnets have been known since ancient times, the demantoid variety was not discovered until 1868 in Russia’s western central Ural Mountains. Miners were immediately stunned by the highly refractive nature of the gem material. They began comparing it to diamond and referred to it as “demantoid”, from the French “demant” meaning diamond. The reason is obvious, with its high brilliance and dispersion. These bright apple green stones are comparatively rare and very expensive as they are no longer mined. In the early 1900s they were a celebrated stone and items of jewellery such as this beautiful ring were set with these stunning stones.

When worn it is flattering on the finger and sits low.