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Arts & Crafts 18ct Gold Fire Opal & Natural Split Pearl Ring by Bernard Instone

A161
17 Admirers Rare Find
Written by Olly Gerrish

An 18ct gold ring that has been set with five oval cut fire opals with natural split pearls in between. It is a wonderful example of the work of English jewellery designer, Bernard Instone (signed “BI”). It was made circa 1930-1940.

Bernard Instone (1891-1987) is a highly regarded and very collectable jeweller, designer and silversmith of the later British Arts and Crafts movement.

He was born in Birmingham and at the young age of 12 he won a scholarship to the Vittoria Street School where he was so successful that he continued there with two further scholarships learning practical silversmithing and jewellery. Following an invitation by the German Court goldsmith Emil Lettre, Instone continued his studies in Berlin. On his return to England he went to work with John Paul Cooper in his Westerham studio until he was called up for the First World War.

In 1919, with his brother Reginald, Instone set up the Langstone silver works in Digbeth, Birmingham. Bernard was made a Freeman of the Goldsmith’s Company in 1936 and a Liveryman in 1938. By now he was selling to a broad range of clients including Sibyl Dunlop, whom he visited every Friday at her shop in Kensington, supplying her with made up designs already marked up with the SD mark ready for the retail market. In the 1940s Liberty also became a customer.

Instone retired in 1963 and spent the rest of his life in the Cotswolds until he died in 1987.

A rare example of his work.

The Details
Ollys Pick

An exceptional ring by Bernard Instone.

Essentials

Item Number:
A161
Materials:
Dimensions:
18 mm (H) x 16 mm (W)
Place of Origin:
England
Discovered:
2 months ago

Stones

Oval Cut 5 Fire Opals
Cut:
Oval Cut
Weight:
1.8 carats
Dimensions:
Largest 7 x 5.2 x 3.8 mm

Hallmarks

Maker’s Mark:
B.I
Early Fineness:
  • 18

Condition

Fair
Good
Very Good
Excellent

Care Tips

  • Take extra care with soft or brittle gemstones
  • Check delicate settings regularly
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