{"id":373481,"date":"2023-12-03T12:18:00","date_gmt":"2023-12-03T12:18:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.antiquejewellerycompany.com\/?p=373481"},"modified":"2023-12-13T16:24:29","modified_gmt":"2023-12-13T16:24:29","slug":"a-guide-to-art-deco-jewellery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.antiquejewellerycompany.com\/a-guide-to-art-deco-jewellery\/","title":{"rendered":"A Guide to Art Deco Jewellery"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

After the devastations of World War I, the Art Deco era – an intoxicating whirlwind of hedonistic living and giant leaps in innovation – blew in, lifting everybody’s spirits. This period is widely remembered for its cocktail-sipping, fringe-shaking flappers, its jazz and its Great Gatsby-esque lifestyle. It’s also known for its spectacular, bold jewellery. In fact, the styles of Art Deco jewellery are still widely imitated today. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Female
Female flappers kicking, dancing, and having fun while musicians perform during a Charleston dance contest at the Parody Club.
 Photo: Hulton Archive\/Getty Images<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Women\u2019s fashion dramatically changed in the 1920s. The new, hands-on roles required from women in the absence of their wartime heroes had transformed fashion from the relative formality and restriction of the Edwardian era and the war time years to fun, elegant, and practical styles (think Coco Chanel) that highlighted the freedom of modern women and allowed them to participate in activities that were previously for men only. Corsets disappeared, hemlines grew shorter. This freedom and sense of fun was reflected in the new, exciting jewellery styles and fashions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Coco
Coco Chanel<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Innovation<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The term “Art Deco” comes from the Exposition International des Arts D\u00e9coratifs et Industriels Modernes<\/em>, held in Paris in 1925 – an important design exhibition which was largely dedicated to the art of jewellery. The key emphasis of the exhibition was on the association of art and modern industry.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Exposition
Exposition International des Arts D\u00e9coratifs et Industriels Modernes<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The Art Deco period was a time of cutting edge industry techniques which brought us the following jewellery innovations: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Platinum<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Following the end of the war, platinum<\/strong> was back in play, as well as a new, less expensive material called osmior, plator or platinor. These strong materials led to light, airy gemstone designs without as much metal required. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Platinum
Platinum hallmarks<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Invisible Settings<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Jewellery giant, Van Cleef & Arpels, developed the significant ‘mystery setting’ or <\/strong>serti invisible<\/strong><\/em> (“invisible setting”)<\/strong> which allowed gems to be mounted in such a way that no metal was visible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Invisible
With invisible settings, grooves in each stone’s girdle slip into a metal framework below the surface, but the metal cannot be seen. Diamonds and gemstones sit side-by-side where they create the appearance of a solid surface of gems.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Gem Cutting<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Gem cutters developed ways to cut and shape gems<\/strong> in new and exciting ways, allowing for the glittering ‘mosaic’ designs of the era. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Shop Art Deco<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Lacquer<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Enamelling – which was labour-intensive and expensive – was replaced by sophisticated lacquer techniques <\/strong>from the Far East. Chinese workers who had lacquered airplan propellers during WWI began to polish and lacquer jewellery instead. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art
Jean Dunand\u200b, Juliette de Saint Cyrca, 1925. \u00a9\u200b The Metropolitan Museum of Art <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Synthetic Materials<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Synthetic materials such as Bakelite<\/strong> became widely available and were used to imitate gemstones, amber, wood and bone and other natural materials.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Art
Art Deco 18ct White Gold, Diamond & Synthetic Sapphire Rectangular Ring<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Art
Art Deco 18ct Gold & Platinum, Synthetic Ruby & Rose Diamond Circle Brooch With Cross Motif<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Theodor
Theodor Fahrner Art Deco Silver \u200b& Synthetic Green Stone Ring<\/a>

<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cultured Pearls<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

A process was developed to ‘cultured’ or ‘cultivated’ pearls<\/strong> by implanting pearl-bearing oysters with mother-of-pearl beads. Cultured pearls were produced in abundance and these stones consequently became an iconic jewel for the 1920s. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Geometrical Design<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The jewellery designers of the Art Deco era were keen to break away from the fluid lines and natural themes of Art Nouveau jewellery. Instead they embraced modernism and the advances in technical innovation and machinery. A new genre of design was born – bold, geometric shapes with clean lines and symmetry. This style of design – also called \u201cstyle moderne\u201d – is instantly recognisable and much coveted (and copied) today. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The term \u201cCubism\u201d was often used to describe jewellery of this era because of the angles, geometric lines and figurative representations employed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

International Influence<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Cultures around the world influenced the Art Deco era and introduced new jewellery trends, from Far East Asian motifs and Indian gemstone-carving to exotic, new colourful materials such as lapis lazuli, turquoise and agate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Jacques
Jacques Cartier with Indian gemstone dealers. Photo from Jacques Cartier\u2019s album recording his voyage to India in 1911. Cartier Archives \u00a9 Cartier<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Art
Art Deco 14ct Gold, Blue & Black Enamel Locket<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The ‘Egyptian Revival<\/strong>‘ stands out in particular. Exciting new archeological discoveries in Egypt, primarily the tomb of Tutankhamen, had a huge influence on Art Deco design motifs. New combinations of materials – lapis lazuli with gold, cornelian with turquoise – were inspired by the Pharaohs. Lotus blossoms, scarabs, pyramids and the eye of Horus are among the ancient Egyptian motifs that can be spotted in Art Deco jewellery. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Egyptian
Egyptian Revival jewellery<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Two Schools of Design<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Collaboration between the different design arts was commonplace in the Art Deco era and jewellery designs were often created by and with artists who were not ‘jewellers’ by trade. Architects, sculptors, painters, jewellers and other design artists enriched and inspired each other’s disciplines enormously throughout the Art Deco era. The result was a group of jewellery designers known as the bijoutiers-artistes<\/em>, who placed more emphasis on design than intrinsic value. They used gemstones as ‘punctuation’ rather than the focus of the piece. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Bijoutiers-artistes\"
Bijoutiers-artistes<\/em>: Le Corbusier, Percy Scholefield (Charlotte Perriand\u2019s first husband), Charlotte Perriand, George D. Bourgeois, and Jean Fouquet at the Salon d\u2019Automme, Paris, 1927. Photo by Pierre Jeanneret<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The bijoutiers-joailliers<\/em> at the well-known Parisian jewellery houses, on the other hand, were creating geometric designs from tightly packed, calibr\u00e9 cut precious gemstones (always coloured) to surround a centre stone or flank diamonds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"18ct
A beautiful and unusual 18ct white gold Art Deco ring<\/a> with a central half carat diamond with calibre cut emeralds on either side and small diamonds in between.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Many unusual diamond cuts were developed in this time, including trapeze, half-moon and triangle cuts. They drew inspiration from the Far East and India, carving designs into gemstones and mixing precious stones with coral, lapis lazuli, agate, turquoise and rock crystal quartz. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Taj
A mannequin models the neck ornament with the Taj Mahal Emerald, and other jewellery (detail). Archives Cartier Paris. \u00a9 Cartier

<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n
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\"Maharani
The Maharani Sanyogita poses with Yeshwant Rao Holkar II, the Maharaja of Indore, who is wearing a sapphire Taveez bead necklace by Cartier and a Cartier Art Deco brooch. Photo via Instagram @AlThaniCollection and Christie\u2019s<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Art Deco Jewellery Styles<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Earrings <\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Early Art Deco earrings were long and delicate, exposed by the new, short hairstyles. They tended to be geometrically shaped, with diamonds and perhaps a large, coloured gemstone. The late 1920s brought with it monochrome styles which showed off the new diamond cuts. There was a fashion for earrings which doubled up as brooches. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Art
Art Deco 15ct Gold, Platinum & Diamond Drop Earrings<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The 1930s saw a transformation in earring styles and they bounced back up to the ear lobe, onto which they were often clipped. Large, natural shapes like shells, leaves and flowers were popular.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Promotional
Promotional poster for Josephine Baker at the Folies Berg\u00e8re<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n
Shop Art Deco Earrings<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Necklaces<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The icon necklace for the 1920s was the sautoir<\/em>. These were extremely long and often featured a tassel or a pendant. Long strands of pearls and beads were worn any which way around the neck, down the front or back depending on the style of the dress. Pearl necklaces were widely worn during the day and evening. They were often made with cultivated pearls – a brand new innovation – and flattering against all shades of skin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Sybil
Sybil Sassoon, Marchioness of Cholmondeley. Photo via @HoughtonHallNorfolk<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Shorter necklaces were often made with gemstone beads or by mixing diamonds and carved gemstones. They would typically terminate in a plaque-shaped pendant which could sometimes detach for use as a brooch, for example. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Green
Green Chalcedony & Silver Necklace Attributed to Sybil Dunlop<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Another popular style was a multi-strand pearl or gemstone bead necklace with gemstone plaques on either side, in a festoon effect. Spectacular bib necklaces boasted impressive diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Sears
Sears and Roebuck 1928 catalogue, showing the transition from the long necklaces of the 20s into the shorter, more constrained 30s.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Shop Art Deco Necklaces<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Pendants<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Pendants were a significant feature of Art Deco jewellery. Designs were often geometric and featured patterns and materials influenced by Chinese, ancient Egyptian and Indian cultures. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Art
Art Deco Glass Monkey Pendant on Original Cord Chain<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

In line with the tubular, fringed dresses of the time, tassels or fringes often swung from the bottom of the pendants. Pendants would hang from chains – often interspersed with gemstones and pearls – or from silk cords. They would hang at various lengths, depending on the dress they were accompanying. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art
Art Deco Platinum, Natural Pearl & Diamond Pendant on Platinum & Natural Pearl Chain<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Shop Art Deco Pendants<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Rings<\/h4>\n\n\n
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\"Art
Some of our Art Deco rings<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Art Deco rings are bold and beautiful. You often see large, emerald and step cut gemstones surrounded by smaller, tightly packed diamonds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Art
Art Deco Platinum, Emerald & Baguette Diamond Ring<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Art
Art Deco 18ct White Gold, Emerald & Diamond Step Cut Ring<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Art
Art Deco Emerald & Diamond Ring<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Cabochon cut coloured gemstones were popular, as was filigree work, where handcrafted threads of precious metal were used to create intricate designs.  It is nearly impossible to replicate the crisp, refined filigree work from the 1920s today because most rings are made through the use of wax moulds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art
Art Deco 18ct White Gold Diamond Cluster Ring<\/a>, with filigree work on the shank<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Calibre cut stones and pav\u00e9<\/em> ring settings were also typical of this era, resulting in designs which were tightly packed with gemstones cut to fit together perfectly, with little or no metal showing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art
Art Deco Platinum Curved Pav\u00e9 Diamond-Shaped Cluster Ring
<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Stacked bands set with gemstones were popular, as were rings designed to emulate the stacked band effect. Cartier’s three-band ‘rolling ring’ was created in this period and the style is still extremely popular today. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Cartier
Cartier Three Colour Gold Russian Wedding Ring<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n
Shop Art Deco Rings<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Bracelets<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Art Deco bracelets combined all the styles of the era – geometric patterns, pav\u00e9<\/em> settings, carved gemstones and other, less precious materials. Narrow bangles were stacked and jingled along to the jazz music of the day, as did the popular charm bracelets. <\/p>\n\n\n

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\"Art
Art Deco bracelets<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Later in the period, bracelets became wider. Generous, pictorial ‘strap’ bracelets told entire stories, using symbolism or carved gems. Cuff bracelets and styles onto which the versatile ‘clip brooch’ could be attached became popular at this time. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Marion
Marion Morehouse in Chanel, photo by Edward Steichen for Vogue, April 1929<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Shop Art Deco Bracelets<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Hair Ornaments<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

English court etiquette dictated that tiaras be worn and so they were produced with Art Deco design motifs and techniques for state events. Other than that, shorter hairstyles meant that tiaras were replaced with bandeaus, which were worn further down, on the forehead. Often these bandeaus converted to necklaces or bracelets. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art
An Art Deco bandeau (photograph by Edward Steichen)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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\"Art
Art Deco hair ornaments<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Brooches & Pins<\/h4>\n\n\n
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\"Large
Large Art Deco Platinum & Diamond Rectangular Brooch<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Brooches and pins were extremely popular in the Art Deco period and were worn on every item of clothing, including hats. All manner of eye-catching Art Deco motifs, techniques and styles were employed. In the 1930s, clip brooches became popular and were often worn in pairs which may or may not have had pins or frames allowing them to be worn as one larger brooch or separately either side of a dress, for example. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Art
A pair of Art Deco clip brooches<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Shop Art Deco Brooches<\/a><\/div>\n\n\n
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\"Graceful
We love the Art Deco era!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n

Art Deco Highlights from our Collection<\/h3>