The Antique Jewellery Company - antique jewellery, antique jewelry, antique rings, Georgian, Victorian, Art Deco, sourced in London.

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*Albert Chain*	Refers to a man's watch chain, single or double width, which was popularised by Prince Albert.
Amber	An organic material made of fossilized tree resin, Mohs hardness of 2.
Amethyst	A purple variety of quartz with a hardness of 7. The Greek for amethyst was 'amethustos' which means 'not drunk'. The stone was thought to protect against drunkenness. For this reason goblets were sometimes made of amethyst.
Antique	Any item judged to have been made at least 100 years ago.
Aquamarine	A bluey green transparent variety of beryl, the name is meant to suggest the colour of seawater. 7.5 - 8 on the Mohs scale. Aqua in ancient times was credited with aiding sleep, protecting sailors and counteracting the effects of pois
Art Deco	Characteristic geometric design form begun in the late nineteenth century and specifically associated with the period from 1920-1935.
*Art Modern/Retro*	An extension and modification of ART DECO into the 1940's & 50's.
Art Nouveau	Characteristic flowing lines based on natural forms, 1890's-1910. For more information go to Periods section.
Arts & Crafts Movement	Characterized by handmade silver and enamel pieces set with rough or flawed stones: movement strongest from 1900 to 1910.
Baguette	Small gems cut in the form of narrow rectangles or tapered trapezoids.
Bangle	A bracelet which is not flexible.
Baroque	An irregular shape more common than spherical (normally referring to pearls) may be natural or cultured.
Base Metal	Any non-precious metal.
Basket Mount	Describes the area where the sides and part of the shank of the ring head are in an openwork basket shape.
Basse-Taille	A method of enamelling in which the surface of the metal is hollowed out to receive the enamel. Similar to 'CHAMPLEVÉ'. The design in the base metal was first made by chasing, carving, engraving, stamping or engine-turning, and then the surface was covered with transparent or translucent coloured enamel that is then fused by firing in a kiln.
Bead-Set	Beads of metal, which secure the stone flush with the mount as in pavé setting.
Bezel-Set	A collar of metal burnished over the girdle of the stone to hold it in place.
Blackwork	Blackwork was a type of black enamel typically used on Georgian pieces.
Blue-White	A diamond term sometimes used to infer the finest colour.
Bohemian Garnet	A loosely used term to indicate the small dark red rose-cut garnets used regularly in the late nineteenth century.
Bombé	Convex shaped, often used in period jewellery, particularly in rings and brooches.
Bright Cut	Convex shaped, often used in period jewellery, particularly in rings and brooches.
C-Clasp	A simple closure in the shape of a "C" found on antique brooches.
Cabochon	A polished, not faceted, dome shaped stone - either round or oval with a flat polished base, primarily used as a cut for phenomenal stones such as cat's eyes and stars.
Calibré	Any stone specially cut to fit a particular mount, rarely used in modern jewellery due to the expense.
Cameo	The process of carving in order to leave a raised design (above the table of the stone) on a single piece of material. Antique cameos are rare and traditionally made from shell or stone. Modern copies are often made of plastic. Opposite of Intaglio.
Cannetille	Open coiled wirework, a technique popular during the first half of the nineteenth century.
Carat	A unit weight of gemstones, 1ct is equal to 0.2 grams. Originally from the uniform weight of the carob seed.
Carat Gold	Any solid alloy of gold with other metals, below a fineness of 24ct but more than 10ct, may be stamped showing the actual fineness, for example "18ct Gold".
Cartier	Maison Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier when he took over the workshop of his master. In 1874 his son, Alfred Cartier took over the company, but it was Alfred's sons Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who were responsible for establishing the world-wide brand name of Cartier. Louis retained responsibility for the Paris branch, moving to the Rue de la Paix, in 1899. He was responsible for some of the company's most celebrated designs, like the mystery clocks, fashionable wristwatches and exotic orientalist Art Deco designs, including the colourful "Tutti Frutti" jewels. Cartier also created the famous Panthère brooch of the 1940's for Wallis Simpson. Jacques took charge of the London operation and eventually moved to the current address at New Bond Street. Pierre Cartier established the New York City branch in 1909, moving in 1917 to the current location of 653 Fifth Avenue, the Neo-Renaissance mansion of Morton Freeman Plant which Cartier bought in exchange for $100 in cash and a double-stranded natural pearl necklace valued at the time at $1 million. Cartier has since become synonymous with glamour and prestige.
Cartouche	Shield or scroll (shape) usually has Hallmark or Punchmark within.
Casting	Formed by pouring molten metal into a mould. 99% of modern jewellery is cast, as opposed to antique jewellery which was made by hand.
Cat's Eye	A well defined streak of light along a cabochon (chatoyancy).
Chalcedony	A semi-transparent to translucent form of quartz.
Champlevé	An enamel technique, employing an etched design filled with enamel. See "Cloisonné".
Channel Set	Rows of gems secured by metal flanges, with no claws or beads used.
Chenier	A tube of metal cut and set as a cross section, normally under the gallery or shoulders, traditionally used in antique jewellery to enhance a design.

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Demantoid	The demantoid is one of the most dispersive gemstones that exist, yet until recently it was little known except among collectors and stone lovers. It is a green garnet, or rather the star of the green garnets. Not without reason does it bear a name which means 'diamond-like'. The name comes from the Dutch and makes reference to the outstanding quality of this gem, its incomparable brilliance and fire. The demantoid belongs to the garnet family, and is actually a variety of the garnet mineral andradite. But it is more than that: it is the most expensive kind of garnet and one of the most precious of all gemstones. It is highly prized because of its rarity, coupled with an intense luminosity. Demantoid has an extremely high refractive index 1.880 to 1.889. Its high dispersion is also remarkable, its ability to split the light which comes in through the facets and break it down into all the spectral colours. The demantoid surpasses even diamond in its dispersive properties. This stone comes in many shades of green, from a slightly yellowish green to a brownish green with a golden glow. Particularly precious is a deep emerald green, though this only occurs very rarely indeed. It is not only fine and unusual, but the specimens are also mostly small, large ones being extremely rare. Once cut, only a few stones weigh more than two carats, and most of them hardly exceed one. And even if you come across one set in a piece of jewellery, it is always likely to be a small stone. After its discovery in 1868 in Russia's Ural mountains, the demantoid rapidly proceeded to become a much desired gemstone. It found fame among the finest jeweller's workshops in Paris, New York and St. Petersburg. First and foremost, Russia's star jeweller Carl Fabergé adored it for its tremendous brilliance and loved to incorporate it in his precious objects. The demantoid garnet has long been prized for its rarity and brilliance, it remains today one of the most unusual stones available in jewellery in the world.
Demi-Parure	A small suite of jewellery, usually a brooch and earrings or necklace and earrings.
Diamond	Diamond is the hardest of all gemstones (and the hardest naturally occuring mineral on earth)with a score of 10 on the Mohs scale. The word comes from the Greek word 'Adamas' meaning invincible. The diamond has been a highly prized gemstone for the last three thousand years.
Edwardian	Description used for the period during the rule of Edward VII 1903-1910. For more information, see the 'Period' section.
Enamel en Ronde Basse	Enamel on an object in the round. Opaque enamel is applied thickly on a raised or metal surface to form a relief decoration.
Emerald	Emeralds are a variety of the Beryl family coloured green by trace amounts of chromium and sometimes vanadium. Beryl scores 7.5 - 8 on the Mohs scale. Most emeralds are highly included, so more care is recommended when wearing. The word "emerald" comes from the Greek 'Smaragdos' meaning green.
Emerald-Cut	A rectangular step-cut with 45-degree corner angles.
Enamel	A pigment of a vitreous nature composed usually of powdered potash or silica, bound with oil coloured glass as a surface decoration, fired at a very low temperature.
Encrustation	An overlay of gemstones, gold, etc., on the surface of another substance.
Engraving	Ornamentation using chisels or engravers to cut away design.
Faceting	Polishing a gemstone into a series of flat planes for maximum beauty and brilliance.
Filigree	A fine wire bent and soldered to create a usually very intricate design.
Filigree Enamel	Decorative enamel in the manner of cloisonné.
Flourescence	The varying colour effects produced when materials are subjected to ultra-violet light. Some diamonds fluoresce strongly, the dark blue 'Hope' diamond fluoresces deep red for example.
Fob	A seal or other decorative items suspended from a man's watch chain.
Foil Backed	A thin metal foil behind a stone in a closed-back setting which adds colour and/or brilliance, popular in Georgian and early Victorian jewellery.
French Jet	Black glass made to resemble jet.
Gallery	On a ring, the area below the setting, usually described as pierced, carved, swagged, scrolled, ornate etc.
Gemology	The study of gemstones.
Gilded or Gilt	Dipped in gold.
Girandole	A pendant, brooch or earrings with swinging pear-shaped drops. Popular in the Edwardian period.
Girdle	The middle of a fashioned gemstone, it divides the crown and pavilion.
Granulation	Application of tiny gold beads to a plain surface by soldering. Employed extensively by the ancient Etruscans, the process was lost until the 19th century when it was rediscovered by experimentation's carried out largely by the celebrated Italian, Fortunato Castellani. Typical of the Etruscan style popular in the mid-nineteenth century
Grisaille	Layer(s) of white enamel over grey ground produces a monochromatic effect. A type of decoration in painted enamel in which the picture or design is monochrome - usually shades of grey on a white background.
Gypsy Setting	A stone sunk into a mount with the table flush with the mount surface. Usually there are one to three stones in the ring. Popular Victorian setting.

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Hair Compartment	A glass compartment on the reverse side of a piece of jewellery which held hair of a friend, lover, or relative, not necessarily a memorial piece of jewellery. Popular mid-nineteenth century.
Hair Jewellery	Braided or designed human hair made into jewellery (i.e. lockets, brooches, etc.) for memento or memorial.
Hallmark	System of marking precious metals, not required on antique jewellery, but sometimes marks can be found.
Hololith Ring	A ring cut from one piece of gem material, without joins or connections.
Illusion	Metal surrounding a stone making it appear larger than it is, by working the metal in such a way that it looks like an extension of the stone.
Inlay	To set in a surface to form a decoration. The process of decorating by inserting shaped pieces of material (not enamel) into the surface or ground of an object so that the surfaces of both are level.
Intaglio	Material carved (worked) so that the design is cut into the surface of the material (incised). Opposite of cameo.
Irridium	Part of the platinum family, it is used as an alloy for platinum to create a harder metal. Platinum is generally alloyed with 3% copper to make it softer; if a harder metal is wanted, the alloy is 10% irridium and for a medium hard alloy, 5% is used. The hardness of irridium also makes it serviceable for pen nibs.
Jabot Pin	A 'Jabot' was a type of ruffle worn on the chest of a man's shirt or woman's blouse. The 'jabot pin' was designed to hold the 'jabot' onto the shirt. It is a pin with a brooch at either end.
Jade	The term covers two distinct types of stones: jadeite, the Chinese jade, and nephrite, the New Zealand greenstone (often confused for jade). Jadeite is rarer and more precious. Jade from Burma and southern China ranks as the finest in the world, along with jadeite from Siberia.
Jasper	An opaque, compact form of quartz which occurs in shades of dark red, brown, yellow, green and grey. Used especially for larger decorative pieces.
Jet	A hard black variety of coal or lignite. Specimens are known from the Bronze Age. The main source since Roman times is the Yorkshire coast in England near Whitby. Whitby jet, particularly, was a favourite of Queen Victoria during her widowhood.
Karat	Measurement of the fineness of gold. Pure gold is 24 Karat. Continental standards are marked as decimals, i.e., .750 for 18k, .375 for 9k, etc.
Lace Rings	For holding the folds of a scarf or lace fichu - fashionable in the second half of the 18th century.
Lapis Lazuli	Laps lazuli is an opaque stone with gold flecks (iron pyrites) and calcite. Ground lapis lazuli was used by artist's as a pigment until replaced by ultramarine.
Laten (latten)	Brass, a mixture of copper and zinc. A common metal of the Middle Ages. It resembles gold in colour and is much softer than bronze.
Lavaliere	A delicate pendant(s) worn on or attached to neck chains.
Limoges	A type of enamelwork on copper in the style of 'champlev
Longuard Chain	A very long chain to be worn around the neck, having clasps at the ends to be attached when the chain was passed through a lady's fur muff. These chains were worn in England in the 18th and 19th centuries. Winston Churchill's wife Clementine was given a longuard chain as a wedding gift.
Luckenbooth Brooches	Heart shaped brooches, the name presumably because they were sold in the Luckenbooths street stalls (locked booths) near St. Giles Church, Edinburgh. They were often pinned to the shawl worn by a child at its christening to ward off evil.
Lustre	Eight types of lustre are recognized by a gemmologist: (1) Adamantine - characteristic of diamonds only, (2) Vitreous, the appearance of broken glass (sapphire, ruby, emerald, topaz, tourmaline and rock crystal), (3) Metallic, opaque gemstones (Hematite and pyrite are examples), (4) Pearly (Moonstone and opal), (5) Waxy, Turquoise, (6) Resinous, having the appearance of resin (Amber), (7) Silky, fine green malachite, and (8) Oily like the sheen of oil (Chrysolite).

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*Mabé Pearl*	Mabés are assembled after culturing. Therefore, all Mabé cultured pearls are assembled cultured pearls.
Maker's Mark	Initials or trademark stamped or engraved on a piece.
Malachite	From the Greek 'malache', from its green colour. A dark green stone with bands of various shades of green. It is hydrated copper carbonate. Found in the Ural Mountains, Tagilsk in Siberia, Zaire and Zimbabwe.
*Marquise*	Stone or item of jewellery that is essentially oval but has pointed ends.
Matrix	Parent (or host) rock. Term usually associated with turquoise or opal. Also the base of a signet ring.
Meleé	Assortment of small diamonds of mixed sizes, normally under 0.20ct.
*Memorial*	Remembrances of dead friends, relatives, lovers, etc. This type of jewellery may have hair compartments, or be engraved with details, and enamelled (usually a dark colour). Introduced in the 17th century. Some of the most intricate jewellery from the 17th century onwards was of this style.
Micro-Mosaic	Small pieces of glass (tesserae) grouted to form a design so fine that the design may appear to be painted onto an item.
Millegrain	A type of setting for stones in which tiny beads of the metal are raised to grip the girdle and so enhance the sparkling effect.
*Moche Agate*	Similar to moss agate. Inclusions are manganese oxide, which produce arborescent markings. It is found especially in Montana and Wyoming USA.
Mohs Scale	A table of comparative hardness devised by the Austrian mineralogist, Friedrich Mohs. Based on the ten relatively common minerals which are ranked from 1 to 10 in order of increasing hardness: (1) talc (2) gypsum (3) calcite (4) fluorite (5) apatite (6) feldspar (7) quartz (8) topaz (9) corundum (10) diamond. A fingernail will scratch gypsum and softer substances. Ordinary window glass is slightly softer than feldspar. Almost all-important numbers in the scale indicate only the order of hardness and bear no relationship to quantitative hardness. That is, there is a greater difference between the hardness of corundum and diamond (9 and 10) than between 1 and 9.
Mosaic	Pieces of glass or gems set in grout. See "Micro-Mosaic" & "Pietra Dura". An object decorated with many small adjacent pieces of inlaid varicoloured glass or stone arranged to form a picture of design. For articles of jewellery. The mosaic was usually made in the form of medallions set in brooches, pendants, and necklaces. Finger rings, earrings and parures.
*Moss Agate*	A type of chalcedony. Varying amounts of iron oxide inclusions produce moss like effects.
Mourning	Rings made especially to mark the death of a loved one. Often called 'memento mori' rings. Rare examples survive intact and are highly collectable.
Nacre	Iridescent layers of six-sided crystals of aragonite (calcium carbonate) held in a web - like deposit of conchiolin to which pearls owe their luminous beauty.
Native Cut	Term used to indicate irregularities of facets. Common in jewellery prior to the early twentieth century.
Natural	Natural can refer to a gemstone or a pearl. A natural stone is called such because it has not been subjected to any treatments. a natural pearl is one that has grown through a natural irritant getting into an oyster, as opposed to a cultured pearl which will have been seeded with a bead nucleus.
Natural Pearl	A pearl bearing mollusc that has not been tampered with in any way by man to produce a pearl. The use of "pearl" alone means natural. See "Cultured Pearl".
Navette Cut	The marquise or pointed oval.
Nickel Silver	An alloy of 65% copper, 5 to 25% nickel, and 10 to 30% zinc.
Niello	A black material (sulphur, lead silver & copper mixed) used to fill engraved work on silver or gold.

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Old Cut Diamond	Refers to a stone cut with a circular shape and large CULET. These stones were cut to maximise light return in low light conditions predominantly prior to 1910. Also called an Old European Cut.
Old Mine Diamond	Diamonds mined before the African mines were discovered, either from Brazil or India.
Onyx	A form of chalcedony with black land white bands. Often carved into cameos, cups and vases and other decorative objects.
Opal	The word 'opal' is of doubtful origin but probably came from Sanskrit upala, meaning precious stone. This beautiful gemstone is a solidified silicate, not a crystal as are most of the other principal gemstones. Its exact nature is not completely understood. The varying refractive index of the thin layers of which precious opal is composed gives it its distinguishing characteristics. The principal fascination with precious opal comes from the infinite variety of colour display. Opal has hardness of 5.5 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale. Much precious opal occurs in thin layers.
Oxidised Silver	Has a blackened finish from immersion in potassium sulphide, etc. Can also become black with age.
Palladium	A silver white metallic element belonging to the platinum group. It has good working properties and weighs half as much as platinum.
Parrure	A matching set (suite) of antique jewellery consisting of a necklace, earrings, brooch, ring, bracelet, and sometimes a tiara. Parures were introduced in the 18th century.
Paste	Glass made to resemble gem materials, which may be moulded, faceted, carved, etc.
Pavé-	Surface of piece is covered with stones held in position by bead-setting. The article will look like it has been paved with stones.
Pavillion	The portion of the stone below the girdle.
Pearl	A calcareous concretion of calcium carbonate and organic matter secreted by a mollusc in response to an irritation. Layers of nacre and conchiolin are secreted concentrically around a centre or core in response to an irritant. Natural pearls are formed when an object such as a grain of sand gets in between the inner layer of the shell and the mantle of the oyster. Cultured pearls are produced exactly the same way except that the irritant is introduced into the oyster by human means. The beauty of pearls comes from the nacre or irridescent outer layers. The value of pearls is based on colour, lustre, translucency, texture, shape and size. Natural pearls are nacre all the way through, this makes them more durable and more lustrous than a cultured pearl. They are also extremely rare and therefore highly prized.
Peridot	A variety of chrysolite. It is the gem of variety of olivine. The colour is generally a warm olive or yellowish green. The main source is St. John's Island in the Red Sea.
Pewter	There are no government regulations for pewter standards but there is an industry standard devised by the American Pewter Guild, assisted by the American Society of Testing and Materials. Guild members honour it as law. Their pewter is 92% tin, 7% antimony and 1% copper. Because high quality pewter takes a fine polish, it is now being used for some jewellery, especially pendants. Some 'pewter like' metal is now being used to manufacture lighter weight; sand cast aluminium - based products and is sold under such names as Arm tale, Ameralloy and International Crafts Metal.
*Pietra Dura*	Polished gem materials set in a ground of (usually) black marble to form a design or motif.
*Pinchbeck*	An early 18th century alloy of copper and zinc (9 parts zinc and 48 parts copper) invented by Christopher Pinchbeck. Another formula consisted of 83 parts copper and 17 parts zinc. It looks like gold, wore well and maintained its colour. Now collected, not as a substitute for gold, but for its antiquity.
Piqué	Diamonds with eye visible inclusions.
*Platinum*	Platinum is the hardest precious metal. It is lighter, harder and stronger than gold or silver which it superseded as a setting for diamonds making finer intricate settings possible. Platinum is considered the ideal material for diamond settings. Platinum was first hallmarked in the UK in 1975.
*Plique a Jour*	Type of enamel work in which there is no backing metalwork, it is confined within open metal frames. The design is outlined in metal and filled with a variety of coloured transparent/translucent enamels. In this process there is no backing behind the enamel, so the effect is similar to stained glass windows. A technique used widely in Art Nouveau jewellery and of which Rene' Lalique' is considered the master.
*Poesy Ring*	The term 'poesy', is based on the French word 'poésy', to describe the motto or poem inscribed on the ring. A poesy ring is a band of gold, with a short inscription on the outer or inner surface. They were traditionally used as a lover's token, a wedding ring, in friendship, for loyalty or even as memorial rings. Popular during the 15th, 16th, and 17th centuries in England and France. In early poesy rings the inscription was written in Norman French, with French, Latin and English used in later centuries. The poesies were originally written on the outside, moving to the hidden inside of the band in the mid 16th Century and onwards. The British and V & A museums in London and Ashmolean Museum in Oxford have the most extensive collections in the world.
*Poincon*	term referring to French hallmarks.
*Provenance*	Documented history of a piece including origins and important owners, etc. Associated solely with important period pieces.
*Quartz*	Quartz is a silicon oxide with the various colours being derived from metallic oxides. Varieties include, Amethyst, Citrine and Smoky.
Radiant Cut	Based on the emerald cut, it features 70 facets with step cut facets above the girdle and triangular facets below.
*Red Emerald*	A deep red beryl is a crimson counterpart of emerald, and was discovered in Utah and reported to the 36th annual Conclave of the American Gem Society held in Cincinnati in 1970. It is the first true red beryl ever reported.
*Regard Ring*	A ring set with a row of small stones of different kinds, the initial letters of which spell a word, for example, to spell 'regard', the stones could be: Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Diamond.
*Repoussé*	The raising of a pattern in relief on metal by beating from the under side.
*Rolled Gold*	Fusing gold to a base metal with heat and pressure produces rolled gold.
*Rose Cut*	A method of cutting stones dating from the mid-seventeenth century. The stone has a flat base and rises to a faceted pointed top. The diamond is cut with 24 triangular facets in the shape of a hemisphere. In all seven principal variations of the rose cut the facets are hexagonally arranged and the base of the stone is flat.
*Rose Gold*	A gold of any karat alloyed with copper or copper and silver. To give a rose colour or hue.
Ruby	From the Corundum family, the red variety being ruby and the blue, sapphire. With the exception of the diamond, corundum is the hardest of the gemstones on the Mohs scale scoring a 9. Ruby is derived from the Latin "Ruber" meaning red. It has long symbolised eternal devotion and romantic love.

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Saddle Ring	A ring that goes across the width of a finger which is more than one stone deep.
Sapphire	Part of the Corundum family. Sapphire comes from the Persian "Saffir", or the Greek "Sapphiros". Blue is the best-known colour but it can be found in all colours of the spectrum.
Sautoir	A very long narrow necklace (beads or chain), often having a tassel or ornament at the bottom.
Seal	Carved with an intaglio but with design reversed so that it is readable when impressed in wax, etc.
*Seed Pearl*	A natural pearl 2mm or less in size.
Shank	The part of the ring that encircles the finger, not including the top piece or head.
*Silver Plate*	Electro-plate or deposit layer of silver electrolytically on a base metal.
*Single Cut*	A round stone with just 18 facets, top and bottom. Used only on very small stones.
*Star Set*	A gem is deeply set, with its table scarcely rising above the surface of surrounding metal, having rays engraved as though coming from the gem, which then appears as a star.
*Step Cut*	Horizontal, layered facets, as in emerald cut, also called trap-cut.
*Sterling*	An alloy of 925/1000 fine silver with a permitted tolerance of 4/1000ths for an article made without solder or 10/1000ths if it includes solder.
*Table*	The large horizontal facet on the top of a faceted stone.
Taille D'Epergne	A kind of enamelling, the reverse of CHAMPLEVÉ, as the ornamentation is simply engraved and then filled with enamel.
*Tanzanite*	The deep blue variety of zoisite was first discovered in Tanzania in 1967 to which Tiffany & Company gave the trade name "Tanzanite". It has a hardness of 6 on the Mohs scale. Most crystals occur in a variety of colours, usually brownish or greenish and are heat treated to produce the deep blue colour. This treatment is permanent and is a duplication of the natural process, but accelerated by man.
*Tested*	A metal that has been acid tested to ascertain that it is gold or silver, etc., and if such further tested to give a near accurate assessment of gold content or silver content.
*Theodore Fahrner*	Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and modern jewellery was manufactured by the firm of Theodor Fahrner for a hundred and twenty-five years (1855-1979). Growing into a major producer of style-conscious jewellery, the company both led and was inspired by the major European art movements of Arts and Crafts, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Art Moderne. From their workshops in Pforzheim, Germany, they exported goods worldwide.Theodore Fahrner sensing the trend away from symbolism and historicism, Fahrner turned to the Darmstadt Colony for new designs. The Darmstadt Colony was an artist’s enclave in the Arts & Crafts tradition founded in Germany in 1897 by Duke Ernst Ludwig of Hesse, Queen Victoria’s grandson. Fahrner’s collaboration with artists provided him with cutting-edge, modern designs for jewellery and gave the artists a conduit for the manufacture and sale of their pieces. Exceptional among jewellery manufacturers, Fahrner allowed the artist/designer’s name to appear on some pieces along with his own “TF” trademark. Fahrner’s jewellery manifested the new trend for streamlined, modern pieces, a culmination of the new philosophical approach to design.
*Tiffany & Co*	Tiffany & Co is an American jewellery and silverware company founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany and John B. Young in New York City in 1837 as a "stationery and fancy goods emporium".The store initially sold a wide variety of stationery items, and operated as Tiffany, Young and Ellis in lower Manhattan. The name was shortened to Tiffany & Co in 1853 when Charles Tiffany took control, and the firm's emphasis on jewellery was established. Tiffany & Co. has since become a global brand, famous the world over.
*Topaz*	"Topaz" comes from a Sanskrit word meaning heart of fire. According to Pliny, the gem was named for the island of Topazus in the Red Sea, where the stones were first found. Topaz is very hard, being 8 on the Mohs scale, with a high cleavage.
*Torsade*	Any strands of jewellery that can be worn twisted.
*Tourbillon*	From the French word for 'whirlwind' this can refer in jewellery to a 'crossover ring' or a particular type of movement in extremely high end watches.
*Tourmaline*	The name is derived from the Singhalese word 'turamalli' which was applied for the first time when some of these stones were brought from Ceylon to Amsterdam in 1903. They may occur in pink, red, yellow, blue, brown, black or green. The hardness is 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale.
*Tremblant*	A section of a piece of jewellery mounted on a tiny spring to allow it to tremble when worn.
*Turquoise*	A beautiful opaque stone which gives its name to the colour. It was used extensively in jewellery at the end of the 18th century and during the 19th. Named 'Turkois' by the ancient Venetians. The best turquoise is medium blue and even in colour. It is fairly soft, being only 6 on the Mohs scale.

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Union Pin	A pin in two parts, one part having a hole or socket into which the point of the actual pin fits, so that it is joined into one piece.
*Vermeil*	Sterling silver base with requisite quantity of gold applied. Fraction may indicate ration of gold content to total weight. In the past it has been used to mean 'gold on sterling'.
Vinaigrette	A small box made of gold, silver, etc., with perforations on the top for holding aromatic vinegar, smelling salts, etc.
*Watch Chain*	Goes to one pocket of a waistcoat and has a bar and drop chain for attaching a charm.
*White Gold*	White gold is produced by alloying copper, nickel and zinc with gold, to give it the white colour.

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Georgian

1714-1830

Starting at roughly the same time as the Industrial Revolution, the Georgian period was defined by the rule of the English kings George I through George IV, as well as the American and French revolutions. This period was distinguished by its air of opulence, self indulgence and quirkiness, with George III (aka the porphyria stricken "Mad King George") setting the tone. Starting with the the ornate Rococo style of the early Georgian period, motifs transitioned from Gothic Revival during the mid-Georgian era, to Neoclassical during the transitional 'Regent period' of George IV.

Popular jewellery styles of the period were both elaborate and intricate, forming ornate arrangements such as 'chandelier' style earrings, rivière necklaces' with their 'flowing river' of diamonds, and multi-strand festoons or three-strand en esclavage necklaces' forming swagged concentric rings. In keeping with the 'excesses' of the times, diamonds were a favorite gemstone of the early Georgian Era. Gemstones were used in ornate repoussé settings, forming a raised metal pattern by working from the back side of the piece.

Victorian

1839-1901

When the Georgian period ended in 1830 the Victorian period began with the Coronation of the Queen in 1837, Victorian loved jewellery and was very influential in the designs of this time. Due to the industrial revolution there was a growing middle class and successful business men lavished their wives with expensive jewellery, Victorian jewellery is very collectable and can command very high prices, we hope we can offer you some of the finest examples of Victorian jewelry.

Art Nouveau

1890-1915

The Art nouveau period took the artistic inspiration of the Arts and Crafts movement 18901 - 1915 and produced a variety of beautiful jewellery in design and craftsmanship, flowers, scrolls, insects, figurines and colourful enamels were introduced, France dominated the movement of this period, the Art Nouveau period creativity and originality flourished. Art Nouveau jewelry is flowing, elegant and very stylish.

Edwardian

1901-1914

When Queen Victoria died in 1901 her son Edward VB became the king with the Princess of Wales, Alexandra as his queen, Alexandra was a trendsetter and influenced the nation with the profusion of lace, silks and diamonds. Diamonds were essential in this era, milegrain settings were introduced to make settings disappear to maximise the diamonds beauty. Edwardian jewelry is known to be the best of its time.

Art Deco

1920-1935

Art Deco Period is from 1920 -1935, World War l's end brought many changes in the social structure, a new class of wealthy people emerged who profited from the war had the money to purchase luxury jewellery. Art Deco named after the 1925 Paris Exposition des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes represents the style of the decorative arts popular between the two wars. The introduction to abstract design, cubism and geometrical patterns that the Art Deco period is associated with today, Art Deco jewelry became more ornamental and more geometrical over the years, abstract in design.

Retro

1940s

The range of materials available to the makers of costume jewellery during the 1940s may have been limited but that did not stop changes in style. The art deco style of the 1920s and 1930s still had an influence on the style of the 1940s but in the 1940s bold costume jewellery was the in thing for evening wear . The cocktail party was THE way to entertain at this time and hence the jewellery made to be worn at these parties became know as cocktail jewellery. Cocktail jewellery is big and showy, designed to be noticed. The lines are softer than the strict geometrical ones of art deco, move feminine and curvy . Figural shapes such as animals, clowns, scarecrows and ballerinas were popular as were bows and knots. Fabric folded to give an illusion of movement as well as scrolls and pleats. 1940s jewellery is also know as “Retro” or “Retro Modern” Style.

Mid-Century

1950s

The decade after the war was characterised by an abundance of fashion emphasising femininity. Here jewellery was a natural element, adding that extra special touch to everyday wear. The fearless defender of the home front was transformed into a well-groomed woman, meticulous about her appearance. The society ladies of the capitals supplemented their wardrobes from dressmakers and department stores as well as from boutiques. Beauty queens and the beauties of the day were seen in the latest international styles at luxurious fashion shows. Everyone looked to Paris, and having the right hemline was vital, not to mention the right jewellery. Top quality costume jewellery guaranteed a polished look for those who couldn’t afford genuine diamonds.